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Old 07-06-2013, 11:10 PM   #1
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Island Peak Climbing In Nepal (6189 m - 20306 ft.)

This is the most popular climbing / trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is clearly seen as a pyramid of ice and rock. The mountain itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar separated by a small col. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Ama Dablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.

To participate with this program you must plan on arriving in Kathmandu not later than 2 days before departure date.


Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu. Transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu. Trek briefing and preparation.
Day 03: Transfer to the airport, fly to Lukla, (2800m) and trek to Phakding, (2640m).
Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar, (3446m). Overnight in lodge.
Day 05: Trek to Khumjung (3790m). Khumjung. Visit to Gonglha for a panoramic view of Mt. Kongde, Parchamo, Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Thamserku and the villages of Thame valley and Kunde.
Day 06: Trek to Tengboche Monastery, 3867m with its famous Manirimdu Festival.
Day 07: Trek to Dingboche, 4347m.
Day 08: Trek to Lobuche, 4887m.
Day 09: Visit Kala Patthar (5545m). and back to lodge at Lobuche.
Day 10: Trek to Chhukung (4730m). Overnight in tented camp.
Day 11: Trek to Island Peak base camp (5100m). Overnight in tented camp.
Day 12: Start slowly climbing to the camp 1 (5600m) on Island Peak. You have all day to reach that intermediate camp. Do not expect the luxury of the base camp, but rather expect a sleepless night dreaming of your first 6,000 m peak.
Day 13: Early morning, start going to the top. After camp 1, go up in the gully, traverse to the right, up on a wide stone field, cross the ridge to the glacier. Always beware of the crevasses. You are nearly halfway. Have a good trip to the top and safely down.
Day 14: Reserve day for climbing. The same day back to Chhukung. Overnight in tented camp.
Day 15: Trek to Dingboche. Overnight in tents.
Day 16: Trek to Tengboche. Overnight at Lodge.
Day 17: Trek to Monzu. Overnight at lodge.
Day 18: Trek to Lukla. Overnight in lodge.
Day 19: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu.Transfer to Hotel.
Day 20: Kathmandu, free day. Overnight in hotel.
Day 21: Transfer to the airport and departure.

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This trek is strenuous. You need to have a sense of adventure, and the willingness to walk 8 to 9 hours a day, often at high altitude. Good physical condition and a degree of good stamina are essential. A basic knowledge of mountain climbing is an advantage, although our experienced Sherpa guides will guide and accompany you to the top.

The Climb

South - East Flank
The usual site for base camp is at Pareshaya Gyab at 5,087 m. This is not an attractive place and one has to be careful for avalanches.

From base camp the trail goes round the base of Imja Tse between the moraine and the mountain before turning northeast and climbing steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. Following an open gully leads to the high camp at 5,280 m.

From the high camp scramble across the open gully and take the right hand ridge. After the ridge straight op and cross to the glacier. Find you’re way upwards, to the left side between the crevasses and seracs. You will see a gully with on your left side rocks and on the right side more open space. This gully leads to the summit ridge. Be aware of falling stones and ice.

The ridge itself is a classic and undulates towards the main summit, which is reached by a final snow pitch.

North Ridge

Follow the Imja Glacier and the moraines by snowy slopes op to the col at 5,700 m put your camp on the col. From the cool follow the ridge. This ridge is difficult under snow conditions. Beware of the cornices. The ridge steepness for the final top. This route is a little more difficult than the normal route.

2 Parties could climbs from each side and take the camps down.


For those who would like us to arrange their transfer Airport / Hotel / Airport, it would be a pleasure for us to do so at the cost of US$ 6 per person.
If you want us to arrange your accommodation in Kathmandu before or after the trek, let us know your preference of hotel so that we can arrange your booking accordingly. Guests booking on this program can take advantage of 25% discount at Hotel Garden Home while enjoying their stay in Kathmandu.

Package includes:

Accommodation on room sharing basis on BB plan in Kathmandu.
All-inclusive full board tented camp trek with sleeping tent, dining tent, toilet tent, food and bedding as per itinerary
Services of Sirdar, cook, Shera staff and porters or yaks while on trek.
All kitchen utensils / materials along with tables and chairs.
Transportation, KTM - Base Camp - KTM of all equipment, food, staff and porters.
Local taxes, guide & porters' insurance.
National Park fee.
Royalty of the Peak, equipment allowance of climbing guide, necessary equipment and clothing for camp staff and porters.
Common used climbing equipment. (fixed ropes, ice screws, pitons, etc.)
All transportation in Kathmandu as per program.
Domestic airport departure taxes.
Package does not include:

Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
Expenses of personal nature.
Personal tips

Alcoholic beverages and canned or bottled cold drinks.
International departure taxes.
Personal climbing equipment. (Can be rented in Kathmandu)
Nepal Island Peak Climbing | Climbing To Island Peak | Island Trekking Peak In Nepal | Island Peak Climbing in Nepal | Nepal Island Peak Mountaineering
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